Fold Type
End Fold Woven Labels USA
End fold labels are the cleanest way to attach a branded woven label to a finished garment, bag, or accessory. Both short ends fold behind the label face; the label stitches flat through its long edges — fully finished, no exposed cut edges.
50+piece minimum
48 hartwork review
8–10production days
Flat finish — stitched onto any surface
How it's constructed
- Both short ends fold behind the label face. The left and right cut ends fold to the back. No raw woven edge is exposed from any direction — clean on all four sides.
- The label lies completely flat. Unlike center fold, which creates a standing loop, end fold lies flush against the fabric surface. Ideal for any exterior or surface-mounted placement.
- Stitched through both long edges. Two parallel stitch lines — one at top, one at bottom — secure the label. The visible stitch lines add a deliberate, finished detail to the label's appearance.
- No seam insertion required. End fold labels can be applied to finished garments, bags, or accessories with a standard presser foot. Flexible for any production workflow.
Where it's used
- Hem labels on jeans and trousers. The exterior hem position — the classic denim patch — is the definitive end-fold application. Flat on the fabric, stitched through top and bottom edges, visible from behind.
- Waistband labels. Interior or exterior waistband branding lies flat without adding bulk. Common for shorts, trousers, and skirts with exterior waistband branding.
- Bag and accessory exterior. For fabric bags, totes, and accessories, end fold stitched onto the panel surface creates a clean, intentional appearance with the folded ends and dual stitch lines as deliberate design details.
- Retrofit labeling on finished products. No seam needs to be opened — the label is stitched directly onto the chosen surface. The most practical construction for adding labels to completed garments.
Artwork and sizing
Full artwork is visible
Unlike center fold where only half the artwork shows, end fold displays the complete label design. Visible width is slightly less than flat width (5–8 mm total reduction from fold-backs), but the full design face is always on show.
Account for the stitch line
The top and bottom stitch lines are visible on the finished label. Leave a 3–5 mm clear margin at top and bottom edges of your artwork so the stitch line falls just outside the design area.
Standard sizes by placement
Hem labels on jeans: 60–80 mm wide, 25–40 mm tall. Waistband and side seam labels: 40–60 mm wide, 15–25 mm tall. Use the sizing guide to confirm dimensions for your garment type.
Damask for fine detail
Complex logos, fine type, or small design elements resolve most cleanly in damask construction. For simple text and bold logos in 2–3 colors, standard satin weave works well.
End fold vs other fold types
vs Center fold
- End fold: Lies flat on the surface. Stitched through long edges. Full artwork visible. For finished surface application and retrofit.
- Center fold: Creates a standing loop into a seam. Cut ends hidden in seam allowance. Best for neck labels and in-seam construction.
- If sewing into a seam, use center fold. If applying to a finished surface, use end fold.
vs Manhattan fold
- End fold: Short ends folded back. Long edges stitched. Practical and clean — the everyday surface label choice.
- Manhattan fold: All four edges folded under. Structured patch. The premium upgrade for luxury and high-end exterior placement.
- End fold is the versatile everyday choice. Manhattan fold is the premium statement for elevated brand positioning.
vs Flat sew-in
- End fold: Folded short ends, no exposed cut edges. More finished, slightly more material in the fold-back.
- Flat sew-in: No folding. Lies in a seam allowance, stitched through all four edges. Most discreet — cut edges hidden inside the seam.
- Flat sew-in is minimal and hidden. End fold is more finished and visible. Both lie flat; the choice depends on whether the label is inside a seam or on a surface.
When to choose end fold
- The label will be stitched onto a finished fabric surface, not into a seam
- Exterior placement is required — hem, waistband, bag face, patch position
- The garment is already finished and no seams need to be re-opened
- The full label artwork needs to be visible on the front face
FAQ
End fold, answered
Center fold creates a loop inserted into a seam — the classic neck label construction. End fold folds both short ends back behind the label face, lies flat, and is stitched along the long edges onto a finished surface. Center fold is for seam insertion; end fold is for flat surface application.
Yes. End fold is well suited to heavy fabrics like denim and canvas because the label lies flat and is stitched through only the long edges. Use a denim needle and suitable thread weight; bartacks at the corners add extra security on high-wear positions like jeans hems.
Stitch along the top and bottom long edges with a short running stitch or backstitch, keeping stitches close to the label edge so the fold-backs stay flat. Fabric adhesive can hold the label in position temporarily, but permanent attachment should always use thread.
Yes — this is one of the most common retrofit labeling applications. Position the label centrally on the inside of the collar band and stitch along the top and bottom edges. For shirts still in production, center fold inserted into the collar seam is the cleaner option.