Fold Type
Centre Fold Woven Labels USA
The center fold is the most widely used label construction in apparel — the standard choice for neck labels on T-shirts, sweatshirts, knitwear, and most sewn garments. The label folds cleanly in half; the fold becomes the visible top edge.
50+piece minimum
48 hartwork review
8–10production days
The standard neck label — and why it works
How it's constructed
- The label folds in half along its length. A label that is 60 mm wide flat becomes 30 mm wide after folding. This visible width is what the customer sees and feels at the neck.
- The fold becomes the top visible edge. The woven fabric curves naturally at the fold — no cut edge touches skin. This is the softest part of the construction, making center fold ideal for neck labels.
- Both cut ends are sewn into the seam. The open cut ends sit inside the seam allowance and are caught by the garment seam stitch. They are fully hidden — no fraying, no exposed fibers.
- No seam re-opening required. The label installs during construction, making it the most efficient neck label method for any sewn garment production line.
Where it's used
- Center back neck seam. The definitive use case — T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies. The fold points up into the neckline; the cut ends are caught in the seam. One extra stitch across the bottom secures it during washing.
- Knitwear necklines. Works equally in hand-knit and machine-knit necklines. Keep visible width under 30 mm for knitwear to avoid bulk. Damask construction reduces stiffness against skin.
- Side seam labels. Inserted vertically in a side seam for care or size labels — a clean secondary position that keeps the neck label brand-only.
- Children's and baby garments. Use damask and keep visible width to 20–25 mm. See our baby clothing labels guide for comfort-specific guidance.
Artwork and sizing
Design for the visible folded size
The visible width is half the flat width. If you want a 30 mm visible label, order at 60 mm flat width. Height is unchanged by folding. See the label sizing guide for detailed sizing guidance.
Keep artwork in the top half
After folding, only the top half of the flat design is visible on the exterior face. Place your brand name, logo, and key elements in this zone. The bottom half faces inward.
Standard neck label sizes
Most T-shirt and sweatshirt neck labels fall between 25–40 mm visible width and 15–25 mm height. Knitwear typically runs 20–30 mm visible. Always verify against your seam allowance.
Use damask for fine detail
Damask construction produces sharper type, finer resolution, and a softer back face — the face that contacts skin. The comfort difference is significant for neck labels.
Center fold vs other fold types
vs End fold
- Center fold: Loop inserted into seam. Cut ends hidden. Best for neck seams and in-seam construction.
- End fold: Short ends folded back. Lies flat. Stitched along long edges onto finished surfaces.
- Sewing into a seam during construction? Use center fold. Applying to a finished surface? Use end fold.
vs Manhattan fold
- Center fold: The practical workhorse. Suitable for most garments and production volumes.
- Manhattan fold: All four edges folded under for a fully finished patch. Premium positioning, exterior placement.
- For most brands, center fold is the right default. See the Manhattan fold page for premium applications.
vs Flat sew-in
- Center fold: Standing loop in the neckline — visible as the classic label style.
- Flat sew-in: No fold — lies flush in the seam allowance. Nearly invisible from the exterior. No bulk at the seam.
- Center fold is traditional and visible. Flat sew-in is more discreet — preferred for high-quality knitwear and slim seams.
When to choose center fold
- The label is being sewn into a neck seam, collar seam, or side seam during construction
- Garment type is T-shirt, sweatshirt, hoodie, knitwear, or casual apparel
- A comfortable, clean folded edge at the neckline is required
- Production efficiency matters — no re-opening seams needed
FAQ
Center fold, answered
The visible width is half the flat (unfolded) width of the label. A label specified as 60 mm flat width will be 30 mm wide after folding. The height dimension does not change after folding. Specify the flat width and we will produce the label at that full width for you to fold during garment assembly.
The folded label is placed in the seam allowance with the fold pointing toward the garment interior. The open cut ends sit at the seam edge. When the seam is stitched, the label's cut ends are caught in the stitch line and held securely. For neck labels, one additional stitch line across the bottom of the folded label prevents it from flopping forward during wear.
Center fold is designed for insertion during seam construction. For retrofit application to a finished garment, an end fold or flat sew-in label is easier to attach cleanly because it lies flat and can be stitched around all edges. Center fold labels can be retrofitted, but it requires picking a seam open, inserting the label, and restitching — more work than the alternatives.
Center fold is used across virtually every category of sewn apparel: T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, knitwear, dresses, jackets, shirts, activewear, and childrenswear. It is the default choice for back neck labels in most clothing production. The only garment types where center fold is less common are those with very narrow seam allowances or where a flush exterior finish is required.