Center Fold Woven Labels USA

A center fold woven label is woven flat, folded in half so the fold becomes a soft top edge, and sewn into the seam with both cut ends hidden — the standard construction for back-neck labels on T-shirts, sweatshirts and knitwear. Order the flat width at twice the visible width: a 1.2″ visible label is 2.4″ flat. Ours are Micro-HD damask, from 5 pieces with a Proof Pack.

50+piece minimum
24 hartwork review
8–10production days
Center fold label construction diagram

Center fold labels at a glance

ConstructionWoven flat, folded in half, sewn into the seam
Best placementBack-neck brand label — the standard for garments
Visible areaHalf the flat width shows; plan artwork on the front face
Typical neck size1–1.6″ wide × 0.6–1″ tall, folded
Weave qualityMicro-HD damask, produced under OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certification
PricingFlat 2″ × 0.8″ from $61 for 50; fold priced live in the configurator
Try first$1 sample kit (USA & Canada) · woven proof of your design

The standard neck label — and why it works

How it's constructed

  • The label folds in half along its length. A label that is 2.4″ wide flat becomes 1.2″ wide after folding. This visible width is what the customer sees and feels at the neck.
  • The fold becomes the top visible edge. The woven fabric curves naturally at the fold — no cut edge touches skin. This is the softest part of the construction, making center fold ideal for neck labels.
  • Both cut ends are sewn into the seam. The open cut ends sit inside the seam allowance and are caught by the garment seam stitch. They are fully hidden — no fraying, no exposed fibers.
  • No seam re-opening required. The label installs during construction, making it the most efficient neck label method for any sewn garment production line.

Where it's used

  • Center back neck seam. The definitive use case — T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies. The fold points up into the neckline; the cut ends are caught in the seam. One extra stitch across the bottom secures it during washing.
  • Knitwear necklines. Works equally in hand-knit and machine-knit necklines. Keep visible width under 1.2″ for knitwear to avoid bulk. Damask construction reduces stiffness against skin.
  • Side seam labels. Inserted vertically in a side seam for care or size labels — a clean secondary position that keeps the neck label brand-only.
  • Children's and baby garments. Use damask and keep visible width to 0.8–1″. See our baby clothing labels guide for comfort-specific guidance.

Artwork and sizing

Design for the visible folded size

The visible width is half the flat width. If you want a 1.2″ visible label, order at 2.4″ flat width. Height is unchanged by folding. See the label sizing guide for detailed sizing guidance.

Keep artwork in the top half

After folding, only the top half of the flat design is visible on the exterior face. Place your brand name, logo, and key elements in this zone. The bottom half faces inward.

Standard neck label sizes

Most T-shirt and sweatshirt neck labels fall between 1–1.6″ visible width and 0.6–1″ height. Knitwear typically runs 0.8–1.2″ visible. Always verify against your seam allowance.

Use damask for fine detail

Damask construction produces sharper type, finer resolution, and a softer back face — the face that contacts skin. The comfort difference is significant for neck labels.

Center fold vs other fold types

vs End fold

  • Center fold: Loop inserted into seam. Cut ends hidden. Best for neck seams and in-seam construction.
  • End fold: Short ends folded back. Lies flat. Stitched along long edges onto finished surfaces.
  • Sewing into a seam during construction? Use center fold. Applying to a finished surface? Use end fold.

vs Manhattan fold

  • Center fold: The practical workhorse. Suitable for most garments and production volumes.
  • Manhattan fold: All four edges folded under for a fully finished patch. Premium positioning, exterior placement.
  • For most brands, center fold is the right default. See the Manhattan fold page for premium applications.

vs Flat sew-in

  • Center fold: Standing loop in the neckline — visible as the classic label style.
  • Flat sew-in: No fold — lies flush in the seam allowance. Nearly invisible from the exterior. No bulk at the seam.
  • Center fold is traditional and visible. Flat sew-in is more discreet — preferred for high-quality knitwear and slim seams.
When to choose center fold
  • The label is being sewn into a neck seam, collar seam, or side seam during construction
  • Garment type is T-shirt, sweatshirt, hoodie, knitwear, or casual apparel
  • A comfortable, clean folded edge at the neckline is required
  • Production efficiency matters — no re-opening seams needed
FAQ

Center fold, answered

A center fold woven label is woven flat, folded in half so the fold forms a soft top edge, and sewn into a seam with both cut ends hidden inside it. It is the standard construction for back-neck brand labels on T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies and knitwear, because no cut edge touches the skin and it installs during normal seam construction.
Most T-shirt and sweatshirt neck labels are 1–1.6″ wide and 0.6–1″ tall once folded; knitwear usually runs 0.8–1.2″, and baby clothes 0.8–1″. Order the flat width at twice the visible width you want — a 1.2″ visible label is 2.4″ flat — and keep your logo in the half that faces out.
Center fold labels start from our flat woven-label prices plus the fold, which the configurator adds live. As a baseline, a flat 2″ × 0.8″ two-color damask label is $61 for 50 ($1.22 each) and $245 for 1,000 ($0.245 each) in our published label cost study. You can order from just 5 pieces with a $30 Proof Pack; standard runs start from 50 per design.
Damask. Its finer, denser threads give sharper type and a softer back face — the side that touches the neck — than coarser weaves. Every Peach Labels woven label is Micro-HD damask; we do not weave taffeta.
The visible width is half the flat (unfolded) width of the label. A label specified as 2.4″ flat width will be 1.2″ wide after folding. The height dimension does not change after folding. Specify the flat width and we will produce the label at that full width for you to fold during garment assembly.
The folded label is placed in the seam allowance with the fold pointing toward the garment interior. The open cut ends sit at the seam edge. When the seam is stitched, the label's cut ends are caught in the stitch line and held securely. For neck labels, one additional stitch line across the bottom of the folded label prevents it from flopping forward during wear.
Center fold is designed for insertion during seam construction. For retrofit application to a finished garment, an end fold or flat sew-in label is easier to attach cleanly because it lies flat and can be stitched around all edges. Center fold labels can be retrofitted, but it requires picking a seam open, inserting the label, and restitching — more work than the alternatives.
Center fold is used across virtually every category of sewn apparel: T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, knitwear, dresses, jackets, shirts, activewear, and childrenswear. It is the default choice for back neck labels in most clothing production. The only garment types where center fold is less common are those with very narrow seam allowances or where a flush exterior finish is required.